The Ultimate Guide on How To Wear a Suit

the ultimate guide on + HOW TO WEAR A SUIT * Types of SUITS (.. BESPOKE A Bespoke suit is cut from a pattern created from scratch for the customer. It usually involves multiple fittings. 75 HOURS MACHINE 30 8-12 Machine made in batches and standard MIN. HOURS sizes. MADE TO MEASURE A MTM Suit is cut from an adjusted preset pattern and uses multiple body measurements. The FIT SHOULDERS The shoulders should end right at the edge of your natural shoulder. To check, place your shoulder against a wall. If the jacket's shoulder hits the wall first, it's too big. LAPELS Notch Shawl Peak SLEEVE LENGTH Jacket sleeves should fall where the base of your thumb meets your wrist and ought to show about a half inch of shirt cuff at the wrist. ARMHOLES Avoid low armholes as they'll cause you to drag the suit upwards when you raise your PANT LENGTH arms. If you are going for a break at the shoes, ensure that the pants end halfway down the heel of your shoe. If theres more break than that, the fabric will pool around the ankle, giving the appearance that the pants are a size too big. JACKET LENGTH Place your hands by your sides and curl up your fingers. The jacket should be resting in your hand. VENTS ONE TWO The most NONE It creates a formed silhouette, but the suit will be obstructive when trying to sit down or reach in your pockets. Originally used by horseback riders to break on the saddle. It is now more commonly used on blazers and sportscoats. common and functional option. Seasonal WEIGHTS PATTERNS Pinstripe Herringbone Houndstooth WINTER Weights ALL SEASON Weights SUMMER Weights Twill Windowpane CANVAS The Canvas is a layer of fabric in between the lining and fabric that gives the suit structure while preventing the wrinkles seen in other garments. CLOTH FUSIBLE WOOL CANVAS CHEST PIECE FULL CANVAS FUSED HALF CANVAS Fully Canvassed jackets are of the best quality and have great craftsmanship. The Canvas, a blend of wool and animal hair, is stitched in between the lining and suiting fabric. It is used to provide support, Fused Suits are the easiest and cheapest to make. Fusible interlining is glued to the wool shell using a heat based adhesive. This method of construction saves time and money, however it lacks the support and structure of canvas. Half Canvassed jackets combine the best of both methods. In this method, canvas lines the chest and lapels and the remainder is fused. This way the jacket drapes naturally from the chest and lapel, where it's needed most and the price can be maintained at a reasonable level. well and osuring that the jacket drapes wearer's body. gradually conforms to the Fabric COMPOSITION POLYESTER WOOL BLEND A lower cost fabric that doesn't wrinkle, but it also doesn't breathe well. FLANNEL A thicker fall/winter fabric. It's not very breathable making it one of the warmer options. COTTON A three season fabric that is used in the US. It has some similarities to wool in that it breathes well and absorbs sweat, but it is thinner and lighter. LINEN A summer only linen is extre- mely cool and bopro However it wrinkles quickly. WOOL The ultimate suiting fabric. Wool is versatile and offers the best in comfort, wrinkle resistance, and longevity. It breathes well and can absorb moisture. keeping you cool. CREATED BY Ernesto Olivares.com ARDENRE ED SOURCES: http://www.npr.org/blogs/money/2012/09/05/160607575/the-difference-bet ween-a-99-suit-and-a-5-000-suit-in-one-graphic Flusser, Alan. Dressing the Man: Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion. Harper Collins. 2002. zo 8-9 10-12 oz zo 02-91