Mens suits - the essential guide

MEN'S SUITS The essential guide The key to looking good in a suit is making the right style, cut and colour choices. Here's our step by step guide to choosing a suit that makes you look great. MEASUREMENTS ============== ============: Top tip: Get someone else to do the measuring. When taking measurements keep a finger between tape and body. MEASUREMENT WHERE TO MEASURE SH Shoulders Across the top of your shoulders and back of neck, from the end of the right shoulder to the end of the left shoulder. JL Back/jacket length From the nape of your neck to just below your crotch. The jacket's hem should be level with the tip of your thumb. C Chest Around the body, high under the arms and across the fullest part of chest. в Bіcер With arms by your side, measure the fullest part of your bicep. Arm/sleeve length End of your shoulder blade, along the outer edge of a straight arm to your wrist. From shoulder seam to cuff. w Waist Around your waist at navel height. L Inside leg Along inside of a straight leg from crotch to ankle bone. Now you have your measurements, match up with the manufacturer's sizing guide to ensure you get the right fit. BODY SHAPES =------------= ------------= Top tip: Choose a suit that complements your body shape. Be honest, and your suit will always show you at your best. SHORT MUSCULAR TALL LARGE If you only buy one suit, make it a dark pinstripe suit. Choose a jacket with minimally padded shoulderslonger lapels and a length. This balances proportions between a wide er body and a narrow Choose heavy fabrics such as wool to add volume and weight. Light colours and check patterns make tall, thin Vertical lines and dark tones large peak create the illusion of a tall ithin Vertical thin stripes and dark tones will give an elongated A jacket with and slim silhouette. A single vent, two button jacket and lightweight materials will also streamline your men appear more substantial. Avoid dark one o lapels and double vents will also help you appear taller. upper waist. Trousers should be pleated and cuffed. colours or pinstripes, as they are slimming. silhouette. SUIT JACKETS ------------- LAPELS Top tip: Always relate your tie width to your lapel width. If you only wear narrow ties, get a suit with narrow lapels. NOTCH PEAK SHAWL If you're only going to own one suit jacket, make sure it has a medium width notch lapel. Timeless and suitable for all occasions. Usually found on double breasted on more formal jackets eg tailcoat or morning coat. Gives the appearance Defined by a round edge and continuous curve, this dapper lapel is commonly found on tuxedos and smoking jackets. of broad shoulders and taller torsa. VENTS Top tip: New suits often have stitching on the vents and a label on the left sleeve. Always remove before wearing. VENT VENT NO VENT SINGLE DOUBLE Very fitted Italian style. Looks great standing up, but if you sit or put your hands in your pockets, it crumples. Slimming, sophisticated American style centre vent is the most common. Less formal than the English style side vents. Covers your behind well, adds shape and reduces creasing when hands in pockets or sitting down. Usually only on high-end and tailored suits Formal, stylish and distinguished. double vent, it offers good movement and posterior coverage. Classic, comfortable and popular. and continental. РОСКЕTS Top tip: Don't fill pockets with bulky items. This will create unsightly bulges and creases. In the long term, you'll ruin your pockets. WELT OR JETTED РАТСH BESOM A single raised fabric strip beneath the pocket opening is common on chest pockets. Nomally found on blazers and sports jackets, this pocket is created by stitching a patch' onto the jacket exterior. Thin welt (or jet) on either side of pocket opening, often used on chest pockets. Jetted waist pockets are usually only found on evening wear. FLAP TICKET НАСКING Used only on waist pockets, the flap is intended to keep pocket content dry. The flap is usually left out, but was traditionally tucked in. Additional pocket just above the right waist pocket, for storing small items such as a train ticket Similar to flap pockets, but slanted. Originally designed to make pockets more accessible while horse riding. BUTTONS Top tip: Always fasten at least one button when standing, never fasten bottom button. Only unfasten buttons when seated. ONE BUTTON BUTTON BUTTON AREASTE TWO THREE Bold, modern and preferred by the young, as it exposes more body. Simply fasten when standing and unfasten Fewer buttons allows for Ideal for the taller gent. Lapels are shorter and elongating effect is reduced. Fastening rules top button Fasten all buttons except bottom. longer lapels, elongating the body for a slimming effect. Never fasten bottom button. -Buttons should remain fastened whilst seated. Only unfasten when removing jacket. noptional, centre button always, bottom wh en seated. Bottom button rule does not apply. button never. TROUSERS Top tip: Always buy an extra pair of trousers as they need cleaning and wear more often than suit jackets. FRONT FLAT FRONTED PLEATED Give a slim and smooth appearance when standing Particularly Folds of fabric on the front allow the trouser to expand slightly when sitting or stretching. Pleats add comfort and flexibility. y suited to tall or slim physique. SIDE BELT LOOPS SIDE BUTTONS Tailored trousers are made to fit, making belt loops superfluous. But waist sizes can change so belt loops can prove useful. A discreet button fastening at the sides, allowing waist size adjustment. Usually on formal trousers only. НЕМ CUFFED UNCUFFED The trouser cuff adds weight, pulling trouser legs straight and prevent bilowing. Perfect for shorter men. Cuffless trousers create the llusion of longer legs. NO BREAK HALF BREAK FULL BREAK Hem should skim the shoe, causing no fold. Creates a formal look, popular with shorter men Hem rests on top of shoe creating a single fold in lower trouser leg. Comfortable, popular and conservative. Hem covers sock and shoe opening. creating multiple folds at front and back of leg. A casual look, best worn by t v tall men FABRICS ======== === ====== ======= Top tip: Linen suits are great for larger body types, semi-formal functions and keeping cool in hot weather. But never wear to the office. WOOL COTTON LINEN POLYESTER Suitable for all seasons. Versatile, durable, crease Popular suit fabric in America. Not quite as warm as wool, but will absorb sweat, keep you cool and it's machine-washable. Stylish, lightweight and breathable. Creases easily, so potentially high maintenance. Perfect for warm weather. Often mixed with other materials. resistant and comfortable Popular wool types for suits indlude: worsted, Economical and durable, but less breathable than natural fibres. cashmere and tweed. COLOURS Top tip: If you only buy one suit, make it charcoal. It's suitable for all seasons and occasions. NAVY GREY BLACK BROWN Traditional, elegant and Charcoal is very versatile. Lighter shades are more compatible with suit pattems and warmer weather. Ideal for formal occasions and a boardroom stalwart. The colour complements a wide array of tie and shirt combinations, for formality or flair. Considered by many a more casual suit colour. Lighter shades eg. khaki and tan particularly suited to funerals. A black suit will flatter darker complexions and hair colours. summer months. PATTERNS Top tip: As a rule, pattemed suits should be reserved for informal functions. Pinstripe suits are the exception to this rule. STRIPES Pinstripe is a thin line of pin sized dots woven into the fabric, and creates a slimming effect. Chalk stripe is thicker, less formal and less slimming. HOUNDSTOOTH A jagged saw blade like pattern, originating from Scotland. Mostly used for blazers rather than full suits. WINDOWPANE PLAID Bold and flamboyant. Youll need to be a confident person in casual company to make the most of this design. HERRINGBONE Zigzag pattern similar to a herring bone. Often used in thick winter fabrics. For formal wear opt for a small, tightly woven design. GLENURQUHART PLAID Named after a Scottish valley and made popular by the royal family. Glen plaid, as it's commonly known, is the most popular of the suit patterns. You have the knowledge. Now be the man who looks great in a suit. Samuel Windsor tailored quality - outstanding prices DOUBLE