Guide to Suits

COLLARS & CUFFS COLLARS Honestly, a lot of these look a lot alike. I'll give you the important ones. CLASSIC SEMI SPREAD SPREAD BUTTON DOWN EYELET WING MANDARIN SMALL WINGS BAND STANDING CUFFS Mix and match! old-tashioned - use with care LAPELS SQUARE ROUND ANGLE CUT also Angle Cut! cuff link, not butor seen NOTCH nainu SHAWL on Uxes PEAK 2-BUTTON 3-BUTTON FRENCH Moving on to bigger and better things.. THE ENGLISH CUT 12 SHOULDERS little/no padding LAPELS thin, notch or peak WAIST tapered sides POCKETS flap VENTS dual The English (or British) Cut's dual vents come from the days of horseback riding, when they made the jacket sit better at the waist. But that was then. Now it's used to make you taller, thinner and younger. PROS: slimming and lengthening CONS: hard to fit perfectly - MUST be tailored THE ITALIAN CUT SHOULDERS very padded LAPELS wide, WAIST tapered, thin POCKETS no flap ("slash") VENTS none The Italian Cut, or European Cut, plays on the smaller waist of the average European man to create a dramatic inverted triangle. This lends itself to both an image of power and the impression that you know fashion. PROS: stylish, authoritative, fits many shapes CONS: less mobility due to lack of vents THE AMERICAN CUT SHOULDERS moderate padding LAPELS notch or peak WAIST only slight taper POCKETS flap or slash VENTS single If the English Cut is traditional and the Italian Cut is daring, the American Cut - or the "sack suit" - is the happy medium. Its roomy waist and overall boxy look make it more casual, but the choice for comfort. PROS: comfortable, good for wide middles CONS: less stylish THE TUXEDO line here. not there!- If this classic feels familiar, it should - the white-tie ensemble has stayed about the same for over 100 years. While a good grip on drawing suits will help here, they're not the same by a long shot! Take note of the details that set a tuxedo apart: LAPELS AND BUTTONS satin or grosgrain-faced NECK bow tie, wing or turndown collar WAIST waistcoat or cummerbund TROUSERS stripe down the side, matches lapels SHOES patent/polished leather - shiny! ACCESSORIES cufflinks, studs, suspenders, boutonnieres and pocket squares But wait! There's more... BLACK vs. WHITE TIE Didn't think l'd let you off that easy, did you? Just like there are three major cuts of suits, there are two variations on the tuxedo - both at your artistic disposal. However, while you can pull off any of those three suit cuts in a variety of places, wearing the wrong class of tux is a huge faux pas. Thankfully, the differences only happen on the top half - so we'll focus there instead. Keep in mind individual shoulder/waist cuts may vary. BLACK TIE shal WHITE TIE pufts the Chest these don't close ends knees turndown wing this should NEVER cod 2 end shawl below this r I or 2 buttons - I profcrable Slash pockets Cummeround can change color +o suit ecme nange *e acneral, m ntrai, looks тore regular suit. * Fun fact! Bioshock's Sander Cohen is wearing incorrect white tie. Then again, he is crazy... SPEAKING OF TIES... RULE NUMBER ONE: RULE NUMBER TWO: The tip of the tie should hit right at the belt. It's a subliminal If it has a pattern or stripes, chances are, it goes in one direction on the knot and in the other direction on the message - it points to your crotch. tie. Draw accordingly. It totally does, though. Of course, the classic four-in-hand isn't your only option. Unique neckwear is an easy way to spice up a bland design. Remember, though - look before you jump! Research is your friend. THE ASCOT dandies HAND-TIED BOw FULL WINDSOR THE CRAVAT nutty professors the 1% the groom Thats all, folko! GO FORTH PRAW! Now