Luxury Leather - A Buying Guide For High Quality Leather

A BUYING GUIDE FOR HIGH QUALITY LEATHER. THE FIRST STEP TO KNOWING WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN BUYING LEATHER GOODS IS UNDERSTANDING WHAT SETS APART HIGH QUALITY LEATHER FROM INFERIOR PRODUCTS. LUXURY LEATHER IS DEEMED AS SUCH DUE TO A COMBINATION OF THREE FACTORS: THE TYPE OF ANIMAL IT COMES FROM, THE WAY IT HAS BEEN TREATED, AND STATUS OF ITS GRAIN. THE MOST DESIRABLE AND DURABLE LEATHER APPAREL, BAGS, WALLETS, AND OTHER ACCESSORIES ARE HIGH GRADE AND FULL GRAIN, BUT THERE'S MORE TO IT THAN THAT-A BRIEF PRIMER ON LEATHER TERMINOLOGY WILL ENSURE YOU KNOW WHAT YOU'RE PURCHASING WHEN LOOKING FOR NEW LEATHER GOODS. + LEATHER GRADES GRADE CRADE GRADE (B) FULL GRAIN TOP GRAIN SPLIT The finest of all leathers. Only the hair has been removed from the epidermis. The surface is natural and has not been corrected, split, or buffed to conceal imperfections. Only the finest quality hides are reserved for this category of leather. Leather that has been buffed to hide Leather that is derived from the imperfections and is generally treated with full pigment color. Top grade treatments are applied to leathers that have prevalent scars, and other defects related to environmental exposure. middle and lower layers of the epidermis. This leather is exclusively used for suede or covered in a fully pigmented, polyurethane coating (commonly called a "PU Split"). This treatment is reserved for the least desirable hides, and is substantially less durable than full grain and top grain leathers. + TANNING PROCESSES THE THREE MOST COMMON TANNING PROCESSES USED IN APPAREL AND ACCESSORIES ARE: VEGETABLE TAN, CHROME TAN, AND VEGETABLE RE-TAN (A COMBINATION OF BOTH PROCESSES). VEGETABLE TAN VEGETABLE RE-TAN • Vegetable-tanned leather is produced using ingredients found in nature, • This allows leather to maintain its strength durability and some burnishing, while adding more supple hand. nonly plant and vegetable CHROME TAN softer, cor matter, tree bark, leaves, fruits, and similar products. • This is the most environmentally responsible process of tanning leather, and is also less harmful to the leather • This process uses chromium sulfate and results in softer leather, which will keep its look, unchanged for the lifespan of the product. itself, allowing skins to maintain their tight fiber structure, thus resulting in better wear over time. • The chrome tan process allows for more vibrant colors and a soft, supple hand. • Vegetable tanned leathers will burnish, resulting in a desirable patina appearance that continues to evolve over time. PIGMENTED LEATHER VS SEMI-ANILINE / ANILINE LEATHER • Pigmented leather, regardless of the type (cow, calf, goat, etc.) will maintain its color throughout the life of the product. • Semi-aniline leather has been dyed or stained, but with a translucent film, instead of a pigmented coating. • The pigment is an applied color coating that will not be affected by wear, sun exposure, or oils from skin. • The aniline dye process is only used on top grain and full grain leathers with minimal defects or imperfections. • Aniline leathers are considered to be the highest quality due to the necessary beauty of the underlying raw material, as most of the natural characteristics of the leather will shine through. Pigment is most often applied to hides that have been "split" and are therefore susceptible to breaking or piping with extensive use. Pigmented leather has a practical place in the market, however it is not considered a high quality leather treatment. WHICH ANIMAL HIDE? + THERE ARE MANY SOURCES OF LEATHER, HIDES COME FROM THE FOLLOWING SOURCES-AND MORE-EACH WITH THEIR OWN UNIQUE CHARACTERISTICS, MAKING EACH SUITABLE FOR A VARIETY OF USES. ALLIGATOR COW/CALF SNAKE Particularly robust with a natural bony armor, making for a glamorous, striking look The most ubiquitous, versatile, rugged, and long-lasting. Calf has a finer, much softer hand Pliable but delicate, each hide with its own unique details, an elegant choice for couture DEER/DOE OSTRICH Highly resilient and scratch-resistant, yet still supple and soft to the touch Thick, soft, and hard-wearing, with a unique goose-bump texture Use this chart to ensure you get the quality you deserve. aHURKA 19 75 GEAR -U.S·A+