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The Discerning Gentleman's Guide to Suit Tailoring

THE DISCERNING GENTLEMAN'S GUIDE TO · SUIT TAILORING Whether your aim is to look effortlessly chic in the office or become a magnet for the fairer sex, only one ensemble will do: a perfectly tailored suit! But where do you start? WHAT TO EXPECT AT THE TAILORS 1st appointment 2nd appointment First fitting or 'skeleton baste' Choose: style, cut, colour, fabric; Expect 15-40 measurements and photographs 3rd appointment 4th appointment Second fitting or 'forward' Third fitting or 'fin bar fin' Book all appointments in advance - the same tailor must • both measure and cut. If there is no baste stage then it is not a bespoke suit, it is 'made to measure'. "Bespoke' derives from the tailors. A suit can take 8-10 weeks to of Savile Row - cloth would "be spoken for". DID YOU make and involves 80 hours of KNOW? tailoring. YOU ARE WHAT YOU WEAR The tailor will take your appearance as a reflection of your taste Wear something that resembles the suit you want! FABRIC PROS & CONS WRINKLE RESISTANT KEEPS YOU COOL MACHINE WASHABLE COMFORTABLE RECOMMENDED WOOL COTTON LINEN MICROFIBERS POLYESTER The Best Good Not Good The number indicates the amount of times the wool has been twisted. The word is derived from 'Worstead', the English village in Norfolk. Worsted Wool Heavier Lighter Softer Warmer Lower twist wool 100's 110's 120's 150's 180's Higher twist wool More durable Less expensive More luxurious look / feel More expensive Everyday wear: Super 100's - 130's Special occasions: Super 140's - 180's KNOW YOUR FABRIC PATTERNS WINDOWPANE CHECK TWILL HOUNDSTOOTH HERRINGBONE GLENURQUHART PINSTRIPE SUIT CUT & STYLE WAIST VENTS POCKETS SHOULDERS OVERALL Single centre vent in the jacket Natural shoulders (no padding) Fine choice for a first suit THE AMERICAN CUT Straight waist Flap pockets Slightly pinched waist THE BRITISH CUT Double vents Flap pockets Padded shoulders Classic look THE EUROPEAN CUT (ITALIAN) Tapered waist (V-shape) Flapless pockets No vents Sleek and modern Padded shoulders The 3 button suit Suits men taller than six feet Single-breasted Single row of buttons More common The 2 button suit Jacket length Fingers should curl up naturally under the bottom of the jacket Suits men with shorter torsos Double-breasted Two rows of buttons More formal The O button suit Suits men with lean frames Not appropriate for all occasions but great for night clubs! Flies A bespoke suit should have a button fly Arm length Arms by sides, expect to see half an inch of shirt One sleeve might be shorter making it easier to see your watch Trousers The Break' is the crease formed at the top of the shoe Go with a slight or medium break Join the conversation... Follow Next on Facebook, Twitter, Google+ and YouTube today. next

The Discerning Gentleman's Guide to Suit Tailoring

shared by DavroC83 on Jun 01
Whether it’s a bar in Hoxton, the office or a posh wedding, there’s no doubt that only one ensemble will take you from zero to hero: the suit! Looking effortlessly chic, well-cut and (ultimately) ...


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