How To Make Simple Lined Curtains

How to make simple LINED CURTAINS How to make simple Lined Curtains – on 3" Pencil Pleat Heading Tape (3" Pencil Pleat tape, may also be referred to as Standard Heading or Regis Tape) Pencil or Tailor's Chalk Fabric & Curtain Lining Needle & Thread (the same width as your main fabric) Measuring Tape Iron Tools & Materials Required Fabric/Dressmaking Sewing Machine Scissors Pins 3" Pencil Pleat Curtain Weights Heading Tape Step 1: Measuring Fabric PRO TIP: Use a metal tape measure as fabric ones can stretch and give an inaccurate measurement PRO TIP: If you are using a patterned fabric, each drop needs to be cut so that the pattern matches at the edges (as illustrated above) - If you are in any doubt measure all the lengths out first and mark the beginning/end of each length with a pin or some tailors chalk before you cut the fabric. For the Main Fabric - Add 8" to the finished length required (6" for the hem and 2" to turn under the heading tape at the top), plus any extra length required for pattern match. For the Curtain Lining - Add 6" to the finished length required - (4" for the hem and 2" to turn under the heading tape at the top, no other allowance is required). Step 2: Cutting Fabric PRO TIP: Use sharp fabric scissors to give a good clean cut - blunt scissors will 'chew' the fabric and can cause plucks and runs in the weave, particularly on delicate fabrics Cut the number of lengths of Main Fabric required to the calculated length (= finished length + 8" hem allowance + pattern repeat) Cut the same number of lengths of Lining Fabric to the calculated length (= finished length + 6" hem allowance). Step 3: Joining the Fabric Widths (If you are making single width curtains go to Step 5 - Hems) Half inch (or 1.5cm) seam width Pin the fabric widths together along Pro Tip: If you are joining an 'odd' number of widths, e.g. 3 widths (1.5 per curtain) or 5 widths (2.5 per curtain), pattern match and join all the widths together first, then cut the centre width in half down the centre. For a professional look - the half width always goes to the outer edge of the window and the full widths to the centre. the selvages, with right sides together, matching the pattern as you go. Stitch using a colour matched thread and a straight machine stitch through the point where the pattern matches or, on plain fabrics, using a half inch (or 1.5cm) seam width. Join the widths of Curtain Lining with a colour matched thread, a straight stitch and a half inch (or 1.5cm) seam width. Carefully press the seams open on the curtains and the linings 12cm PRO TIP: Caution! Too much pressure and too high a heat setting can cause shrinkage on the seamed selvages. If this does happen, carefully snipping into the selvages at 5" (12cm) intervals can help to avoid puckering caused by shrinkage tension. Step 4: Reduce the Lining Width On the outer edge of each Curtain Lining cut off a 5" (12cm) strip down the fulIl length of the fabric PRO TIP: Professionally made curtains have a return of fabric to the back of the curtain so that the seams where the lining and curtain are joined are taken to the back; and reducing the lining in this way creates the allowance needed for such a return. This gives a better hang and finish than would be achieved if the seams were on the very edge of the curtain. Step 5: Hems On the Lining Fabric turn up, press and pin a 2" + 2" hem and flat stitch near to the edge of the top fold. On the Main Fabric turn, press and pin a 3" + 3" hem. PRO TIP: For a professional finish do not flat stitch the curtain hem. Instead sew by hand with an invisible hem stitch (i.e. with stitches that do not show on the face side of the curtain) or with a sewing machine that has a Blind Hem Stitch. Step 6: Stitch the Curtain and Lining Together With right sides together (and making sure half widths line up where applicable), pin the main fabric and the Lining Fabric together starting from the hem. Half Inch (1.5cm) PRO TIP: Professionally made curtains are made from the bottom upwards and the heading tape is put on last. Half Inch (1.5cm) With the side edges flush, move the bottom of the lining up half an inch (1.5cms) from the bottom of the curtain before you start pinning, in effect making the linings a little shorter than the curtains. PRO TIP: This is a method adopted by professionals to prevent the lining dipping and showing below the main fabric when the curtains are hung. 1-2 Return Stitch up the full length of the curtain from hem to top, with a flat stitch and a half inch (1.5cms) seam allowance. Carefully press the seams open then turn the curtain to the right side out. Shake and smooth out the curtain so that the lining (now narrower than the curtain) sits centrally behind the main curtain. You should have a return of fabric approximately 1" – "2 wide on each side of the curtain on the back. Gently press the edges. Pro Tip: Heavy or over pressing will cause distortion and twisting and prevent the side edges from hanging correctly. Some professionals prefer not to press the sides at all, preferring instead to lightly steam them once the curtains are hanging Step 7: Stitch On The 3" Heading Tape Smooth the curtain out on a clean flat surface (this often has to be the floor if you are doing full length or wide curtains) with the lining side uppermost. Using a steel tape measure, measure off from the bottom upwards, the required finished length of the curtain and turn the top of the curtain over, lining and fabric together, to this measurement. Pin the turning, trim to a maximum of 2" (5cms) and press lightly. Pin the tape to the top edge of the curtain, turning under the short edges level with the outer edges of the curtain and stitch along the top and bottom edges of the tape with a straight stitch and a thread that colour matches the main fabric. PRO TIP: Securely tie the cords at the end of the tape that will be on the leading edge of the curtain. Fold under the short edge of the tape to hide the cords and stitch across the edge of the tape catching the cords at the same time. Fold the tape under at the outer edge of the curtain but leave the cords loose for gathering and leave the end of the tape open. The excess cord can be neatly wound and tucked inside this open end of the tape once the curtains are drawn up. Step 8: Professionally Mitred Corners & Weights Tuck the bottom edge of the fabric at each corner of your curtain, back on itself on a diagonal to create a neatly mitred corner and tack the corner point in place with a slip stitch. Stitch a button weight (individual lead weight) discreetly inside the bottom edge of each curtain, on the inside seam just below hem line. Lightly press the finished curtains to remove any obvious creases. Your professional looking curtains are now ready to be hung. terrysfabrics Transform your home for less"