Everything you need to know about trousers

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW about TROUSERS Choosing the right men's trousers can be confusing, but not any more. We answer all your troubling trouser questions here. BELTS OR BRACES? Men preferred braces to hold up their trousers until the 1920s, with belts reserved for military uniform and decoration. But today you can confidently wear either. BUTTON UP CLAMP DOWN Normally reserved for formal and tailor-made trousers. More sophisticated and less wearing than clip braces. Can be worn with any trousers. For formal wear choose plain, dark and simple designs. Clips may wear fabric over time. FORMAL BELT CASUAL BELT Approx 3cm wide, leather, black, plain metal buckle, unpatterned and understated. Wear with formal and suit trousers. Anything goes. Buckle or strap, leather or fabric, skinny or wide. Do not wear a formal belt with casual attire. TOP TIP Never wear belt and braces at the same time. BUTTON OR ZIP FLY? Traditionally, trouser flies were fastened with buttons. But since its invention in 1913, the zip has become the default fastening for most trouser manufacturers. Those craving supreme comfort, may dispense with flies and opt for an adjustable waist. ZIP FLY Economical, discreet and convenient, but accidents can happen. BUTTON FLY A safe and secure fastening, but can be fiddly. ADJUSTABLE WAIST Elastic or drawstring waist fastenings are ideal for sportswear and fluctuating waist sizes. TOP TIP Always be fastidious with fastenings to avoid accidents or unsightly scenes. HIGH RISE OR LOW RISE? The distance between the top of the trouser waistband and the four-way join at the crotch, is known as 'the rise'. Unless you're over six feet tall or have particularly long legs, we recommend mid rise. HIGH RISE MID RISE LOW RISE LOW CROTCH Typically 10" from crotch to waist, great for tall men who want to wear their trousers at waist level. Between 9" and 11", designed to be worn at natural waist height. Most popular cut. Designed to be worn on the hip, and ideal for people with long legs. Best suited to casual styles. Worn on hip. Saggy at back, sides and crotch. Similar to 'drop crotch but not as drastic. Casual look only. TOP TIP If you have short legs, avoid low rise pants. PLEATED OR FLAT-FRONTED? Pleats are folds of fabric just below the waistline on the trouser front. Considered more traditional, pleats prevent creasing and increase comfort. Flat-fronted trousers create a smooth and sleek silhouette and are preferred by slimmer and younger men. FLAT FRONT PLEATS Pleated trousers allow more room and freedom of movement. Beneficial to larger men. Flat, uncomplicated and smart. Creates a closer fitting front, more suited to slimmer men. TOP TIP Single pleated trousers are timeless. Be careful with double pleats, they can make you look like an accordion. STRAIGHT OR RELAXED FIT? There are many names to describe the overall fit of your trousers. Most names are self-explanatory, but it's easy to go wrong. The fit of your trousers should complement your body type and enhance your desired appearance. ПЛЛПО SKINNY SLIM STRAIGHT RELAXED LOOSE Tapered fit, designed to hug the leg. Usually the domain of Straight through the thigh, narrowing toward the ankle. Tapered but not tight. Modern and sleek. Suits men with a good figure. Classic cut, approximately equal in width from top to bottom of leg. Most popular fit and easy to wear. Generous cut to allow room along the entire length of leg. Good for working attire and wearing with chunky boots. Baggy style particularly suited to larger men. Generally to be avoided as excess fabric can lend a scruffy appearance. young, slim, athletic men. TOP TIP If in doubt, try straight fit trousers first, as they suit most body shapes. FULL OR NO BREAK? The break is the fold in the trouser hem where it meets the top of the shoe. Casual trousers can be rolled up or cuffed to the correct length. But for suit and formal trousers, a visit to the tailor is recommended to achieve the right break for your height and style. NO BREAK BREAK BREAK HALF FULL No fold as trouser hem gently skims top of shoe. Smooth, formal appearance Single fold as trouser hem rests neatly on top of shoe. Preferred option for formal trousers. Multiple folds at front and back of leg. Only acceptable for tall men and casual attire. suited to shorter men. TOP TIP As a rule of thumb, if there's more than one fold in your trouser hem, you have too much break. BOOT CUT OR TAPERED? The current trend is for narrow, tapered leg openings to compliment slim fit trousers. Ultimately, the leg opening you choose depends on the overall trouser style and the shoes you wear. TAPERED STRAIGHT CUT BOOT CUT FLARED Narrow opening particularly suited to modern, fitted The trouser width is roughly the same from top to bottom. Classic and popular cut. Generous opening designed to accommodate chunky boots. More suited casual styles of trouser. Wide opening. sometimes covering the whole shoe. A popular hippy style in the 1970s. trousers and paired with smart shoes. TOP TIP Never wear tapered trousers with chunky boots or shoes - you risk resembling a golf club. CUFFED ORUNCUFFED? A cuff refers to the fold or band of fabric at the end of the trouser leg. Whether to go cuffed or uncuffed will depend on height and trouser style. A tailored, flush-folded cuff should not be confused with bulkier turn ups. UNCUFFED CUFFED TURN UPS The smart, unbroken line of uncuffed trousers gives the illusion of longer legs. Particularly appealing to shorter men. Cuffs add weight, pull the leg straight and prevent billowing. Cuffs shorten the appearance of long legs and are ideal for tall men. Turn ups or rolled trouser ends are much more casual and usually a manual addition. Use with caution. TOP TIP When in doubt, choose uncuffed. Never be tempted to turn up formal trousers. All your important trouser questions answered Samuel Windsor tailored quality - outstanding prices